How to Minimise Pores - What the Science Actually Says
- 2 hours ago
- 3 min read
The skincare industry is filled with products claiming to "shrink" or "close" your pores. But if you ask a dermatologist, they will tell you a frustrating truth: pores do not have muscles. They cannot open when you steam your face, and they cannot close when you splash them with cold water.
However, while you cannot change the anatomical size of your pores, you absolutely can change how large they appear. This guide cuts through the marketing myths to explain the clinical science of pore appearance, and exactly which natural ingredients are proven to make them look smaller.
What Actually Determines Pore Size?
What we call "pores" are actually the openings of pilosebaceous follicles - tiny channels that house a hair follicle and a sebaceous (oil) gland. A landmark multiethnic study published in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology found that visible pores range from 250 to 500 micrometres in size.
According to a 2023 systematic review in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, there are three primary clinical causes of enlarged facial pores:
High sebum (oil) excretion: When sebaceous glands overproduce oil, the pore physically distends to accommodate the flow.
Decreased elasticity: As we age, the collagen and elastin surrounding the pore degrade, causing the pore opening to sag and appear larger.
Blockages: Dead skin cells mixing with sebum can create a plug (comedone) that stretches the pore wall.
In young patients, the focus should be on controlling sebum production, while in older patients, the focus should be on rejuvenation in addition to the control of sebum production. - Parvar et al., J Cosmet Dermatol (2023)
The Two-Step Strategy for Minimising Pores
Because pores appear larger when they are either distended by oil or lacking structural support, the most effective treatment strategy addresses both issues simultaneously.
Step 1: Reduce Sebum Production with Niacinamide
You cannot scrub oil away permanently; you must signal the gland to produce less. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) is one of the few ingredients clinically proven to do this. A pivotal study by Draelos et al. (2006) demonstrated that 2% topical niacinamide significantly reduced sebum excretion rates. Less sebum means less distension, resulting in a tighter, smaller-looking pore.
Step 2: Rebuild Structural Support with Natural Retinoids
To stop pores from sagging, you must stimulate the collagen that supports them. While synthetic retinoids are famous for this, they can cause severe irritation. Rosehip Oil is a natural alternative - it is uniquely rich in trans-retinoic acid (a natural Vitamin A precursor). This accelerates cell turnover (preventing blockages) while stimulating the collagen matrix that keeps pores tight.
The Mayka Pore-Refining Protocol
To effectively minimise the appearance of pores using natural ingredients, follow this clinical approach:
Cleanse Gently: Use African Black Soap. Harsh cleansers strip the skin, triggering a rebound effect where glands produce even more oil. African Black Soap cleanses effectively without triggering this sebum spike.
Regulate Sebum: Apply the Niacinamide Nettle Toner. This delivers the active Niacinamide directly into the pores to downregulate oil production.
Support the Structure: Finish with 100% Organic Rosehip Oil to deliver natural retinoids that boost cell turnover and reinforce the collagen walls surrounding your pores.
Scientific References
Flament, F., et al. (2015). Facial skin pores: a multiethnic study. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 85-93.
Parvar, S.Y., et al. (2023). The efficacy and adverse effects of treatment options for facial pores: A review article. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 22(3), 763-775.
Draelos, Z.D., et al. (2006). The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy.
Shop the Protocol: Niacinamide Toner | Organic Rosehip Oil | African Black Soap | Vitamin C Moisturiser
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