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How to Read a Skincare Ingredient Label

Jul 14
5 min read

Updated: Jul 15

You pick up a moisturiser, turn it over, and see a list of 40 ingredients in tiny print. Aqua, Butyrospermum Parkii, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum... it reads like a chemistry exam. For most people, the ingredient list is the most ignored part of any skincare product. But it is also the most important. This guide will teach you exactly how to read a skincare ingredient label, what to look for, what to avoid, and how to spot greenwashing before it costs you money.

The INCI System - What It Is and Why It Matters

Every cosmetic product sold in the UK and EU must list its ingredients using the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients system, known as INCI. This is a standardised naming system that uses Latin botanical names for plant ingredients and chemical names for synthetic ones. It was created so that consumers and regulators can identify ingredients consistently across different brands and countries.

For example, shea butter is always listed as Butyrospermum Parkii on a UK label. Vitamin E is always Tocopherol. Aloe vera is Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice. Once you learn a handful of key INCI names, you can read any label from any brand in any country.

The INCI list is always ordered by concentration - the ingredient present in the highest amount is listed first, and the ingredient present in the lowest amount is listed last. Ingredients present at 1% or less can be listed in any order after the main ingredients.

The First Five Ingredients - Where the Formula Really Lives

In most skincare products, the first five ingredients make up around 80 to 95% of the total formula. These are the ingredients that will have the greatest impact on your skin - for better or worse. If the first five ingredients include water (Aqua), a quality plant oil or butter, and a proven active ingredient, that is a good sign. If the first five include mineral oil (Paraffinum Liquidum), silicones (Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane), or alcohol (Alcohol Denat.), you should look more carefully at whether this product is right for you.

What you want to see in the first five:

- Aqua (water) - the most common base for water-based products

- Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter) - deeply nourishing, anti-inflammatory

- Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (aloe vera) - hydrating, soothing, anti-inflammatory

- Rosa Canina Fruit Oil (rosehip oil) - rich in linoleic acid, brightening, regenerating

- Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil (jojoba oil) - balancing, non-comedogenic, suitable for all skin types

- Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil (sunflower oil) - lightweight, high in vitamin E, barrier-supporting

Ingredients to Recognise and Avoid

Synthetic Fragrances - Parfum / Fragrance

The word Parfum or Fragrance on an ingredient list is a legal loophole that allows brands to hide up to 3,000 different chemicals under a single term. Fragrance is one of the leading causes of contact dermatitis and allergic reactions in skincare. If you have sensitive skin, rosacea, or eczema, avoid any product listing Parfum or Fragrance.

Natural essential oils are listed by their INCI name (e.g., Lavandula Angustifolia Oil for lavender). If you see individual essential oil names rather than the catch-all Parfum, the product is using natural fragrance - though essential oils can still cause reactions in very sensitive skin.

Parabens

Parabens are synthetic preservatives used to extend shelf life. They are listed as Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, or Isobutylparaben. They are effective preservatives but have been detected in human tissue and are classified as endocrine disruptors at high concentrations. The EU has restricted the use of certain parabens in cosmetics. Mayka Skincare does not use parabens in any of its formulations.

Sulphates - SLS and SLES

Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES) are synthetic detergents used to create foam in cleansers, shampoos, and shower gels. They are effective at removing oil and dirt but are also highly effective at stripping the skin's natural moisture barrier. Regular use can lead to dryness, irritation, and a compromised barrier that makes skin more reactive over time. Neither SLS nor SLES appears in any Mayka Skincare product.

Mineral Oil - Paraffinum Liquidum

Mineral oil is a by-product of petroleum refining. It is listed as Paraffinum Liquidum, Petrolatum, or Cera Microcristallina. It is an occlusive ingredient - it sits on top of the skin and prevents moisture loss, but it does not actually nourish or repair the skin. It is cheap, stable, and widely used in mass-market moisturisers. Natural alternatives such as shea butter and plant oils provide the same occlusive benefit while also delivering vitamins, fatty acids, and antioxidants.

Silicones

Silicones are listed with names ending in -cone, -conol, or -siloxane: Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane. They give products a smooth, silky texture and make skin feel immediately soft. However, they form a film on the skin that can trap sebum and bacteria in the pores over time, potentially contributing to congestion and breakouts. They are also not biodegradable and accumulate in the environment.

Alcohol Denat.

Denatured alcohol (Alcohol Denat.) is used in skincare to create a lightweight, fast-absorbing texture and to act as a preservative. However, it is drying and can disrupt the skin barrier with regular use. It is particularly problematic for dry, sensitive, and rosacea-prone skin. Note that not all alcohols are bad - fatty alcohols such as Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol are actually moisturising and skin-safe.

Decoding Natural and Organic Claims

What 'Natural' Actually Means

In the UK, the word 'natural' on a skincare label has no legal definition. Any brand can call any product 'natural' regardless of what is in it. The only way to verify a natural claim is to read the full INCI ingredient list yourself.

What 'Organic' Actually Means

'Organic' has more legal weight when it comes to food, but in cosmetics it is still largely unregulated unless the product carries a recognised certification. Look for the Soil Association COSMOS Organic logo, the COSMOS Natural logo, or the Ecocert certification. These certifications require a minimum percentage of organic ingredients and prohibit synthetic preservatives, fragrances, and petrochemicals.

Greenwashing Red Flags

- Green packaging and leaf imagery with a conventional formula inside

- The word 'natural' prominently displayed but Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, or PEGs in the ingredient list

- Vague claims like 'inspired by nature' or 'nature-derived' with no certification

- Very long ingredient lists on a product claiming to be 'pure' or 'simple'

- Highlighting one or two natural ingredients (e.g., '10% aloe vera') while the rest of the formula is synthetic

A Practical Label-Reading Checklist

Next time you pick up a skincare product, run through this checklist:

1. Check the first five ingredients - are they water, plant oils, or butters?

2. Look for Parfum or Fragrance - if present, decide if that is acceptable for your skin type

3. Scan for parabens (-paraben suffix), sulphates (SLS, SLES), and Alcohol Denat.

4. Check for silicones (-cone, -conol, -siloxane suffixes)

5. Count the total number of ingredients - shorter lists are generally simpler and more transparent

6. Look for certifications - Soil Association, COSMOS, Ecocert

7. Cross-reference any unfamiliar ingredient on the EWG Skin Deep database or INCI Decoder

Transparency at Mayka Skincare

At Mayka Skincare, every ingredient in every product is listed in full on the product page using the correct INCI name. We believe you have the right to know exactly what you are putting on your skin. Our formulations use only natural, plant-based ingredients - no parabens, no sulphates, no synthetic fragrances, no mineral oil, and no silicones. Every product is registered with the UK CPNP and assessed by a qualified cosmetic safety assessor.

If you ever have a question about a specific ingredient in one of our products, you can contact us directly and we will explain exactly what it is and why we use it.

Mayka Skincare: Natural, Vegan, Fresh - Handmade in the UK since 2015. Company No. 11160981. Registered Trademark UK00003266228.

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